Previous Events

Account of the trip, by our diarist, Graham Dadd.

After all the months of planning, receiving large brown envelopes from Graham and Julia, and sending large cheques as late as possible, 18th August arrived quite suddenly. Several of us arrived at the hotel in Louth the evening before, enjoyed good fellowship over the meal, making plans for the exciting trip to come. We met Rob. 

Monday 18th August. A really hot day, ideal for 10 novices to pack 14 bikes into a container... Batteries disconnected, tanks drained, we watched with anticipation as the 'oven' was reversed into position. Doors opened, it was a furnace from hell, but bikers are a spunky lot and each had his own idea of securing the bikes. A torrid 5 hours later the 'oven' was full, bacon sarneys, beer and soft drinks had helped to keep bodies and tempers cool. Rob said most of the strapping was crap, so he and Steve went back in and retentioned many of them. Finally the doors were slammed shut by George (who has a way with containers.....) We just prayed they would survive the voyage and they wouldn't be a pile of metal and plastic when next seen in Baltimore. 

Friday 12th September 9.30 am found us drinking beer in Garfunkels bar, Gatwick, Neville and Dawn providing 2 Table Biker US tour tee shirts for each, even a choice of sizes.. These were great, thank you Neville, We wore them for several days until the haze of flies got too embarrassing...A severe storm before departure but with yours truly in the cockpit we managed a perfect take-off.. Rob had problems of his own, the passenger next to him farted his way across the Atlantic, the deadly silent variety. Rob never one to waste an opportunity spent much of the flight in the aisle, so the girls had to rub themselves against his manly body. At least he landed with a small smile on his face! A good night at the Best Western Hotel, Baltimore. Steve upset a waitress, wanting English Cheddar cheese in his club sandwich. 

Saturday 13th. Next morning eagerly to find our container. Very worried faces as we opened it up. Unfortunately many bikes at the front had fallen over, there were many minor scratches and Brian's Harley suffered severe denting of the tank, but no leaks. 'Red Leader' couldn't start his bike, it took a printer to sort it out. Well done Cliff! Just leave those spanners alone, Graham..

Now fuelled up, we rode into Baltimore to the harbour area first, the city's suburbs needing concentration, very poor uneven roads at intersections and manhole covers either 2 inches above or below the road surface.. Beers at the waterfront, Steve lusting after his first waitress... Some of us to the National Aquarium, an amazing aquatic centre, I watched divers feeding rays, sharks and turtles and a dolphin display. How do these mammals swim vertically with only 2 feet of their tails in the water? Did some ''people watching' most Baltimore folk just "strut their stuff' near the harbour and buy a burger or two, or three. Many of them are hugely overweight, flabby wrecks, and not yet 35.. Most could be diabetic by the age of 50... But obese or beautiful there they were waddling or walking enjoying the lovely harbour, its ships, tall buildings and broad sidewalks.

Sunday 14th Brian is very upset this morning, his little Teddy has been stolen in the night.6 Bikes rode to Washington, the remainder in the mini-bus to see the capital. The city centre is magnificent, if a little sanitised, I didn't see a single dog's turd. Wide tree-lined boulevards, tall state buildings of stone and marble, concealing museums and offices of state and of course the Capitol building, splendid at the end of a wide tree lined avenue, the Washington memorial at the opposite end, 2 miles away. Again, being the weekend, the city was full of walkers, strollers, joggers and tourists. Washington definitely deserves at least 5 days to see everything. The view of the White House was rather disappointing, not as large as I expected, but the 24 hour surveillance by guards on the roof was a surprise, looking menacingly everywhere with binoculars and rifles to hand. Had time to visit the Aeronautical and space centre, fascinating to see the space vehicles and Lunar module, all swathed in gold and silver paper,(they are made of chocolate I expect) and the Hubble telescope and Charles Lindenbergs 'spirit of 'St.Louis'. Again not enough time to do it all justice. Last photo-call at the White House, then back through the suburbs (where do all the whites live?) Basil had the only fire of the trip, not realising he had bought Honda's barbecue model. It had set light to his pannier from the silencer. Strange to hear the sirens soon after as we tucked into sliced buffalo pitas, caesar salads and soft drinks (riders still being sensible..) Rob said the waitress had a lovely bum. He and I got lost returning to Baltimore, returning to a 'prats welcome' from the bar. Peter and Hazel Thornton finally joined us, looking very thirsty after their 400 miles from New York.

 Monday 15th Heading today for LURAY, 25 miles south of Front Royal, most went to Gettysburg first, a large National Military Park where some of the worst fighting of the Civil War took place, Robert E.Lee's confederates suffering huge losses against Union troops at the Battle of Gettysburg, and this was only 134 years ago... Stopped at Little Round Top for photos, having previously met Cindy and Morgan from Mass. Both B.M.W owners on their way to a Rally in North Carolina, They told us about Deals Gap.. Lunch that day at Harpers Ferry, we were now seeing wonderful views of the Shenandoah mountains, in a mist of blue against the skyline. Highways, were smooth and straight sweeping through these densely wooded lands. Swept down from Newmarket into Luray to another Best Weston Hotel. Waitresses in the bar were very senior citizens.... Wendy ,"they don't die here they become waitresses...." can't wait to see Steve and Robs excitment when they see them!

 Tuesday 16th. Still dew on the bikes as we left Luray on another beautiful morning after a crappy breakfast.North briefly to Front Royal to start the Sky Line Drive "35 mph" all the way. Red Leader, Rob, Steve, Nigel and others, right hands twitching at their throttles, could hold back no longer and soon hammered ahead, Mike and Jean Peach leading the old buffers at a more sedate 50 mph max.. met the rest for a boisterous lunch at a place I can't remember....must have been good.... and soon after Red Leader indulged in a little horizontal biking at a stop-over, no serious damage done, happily.

It was at the start of the Blue Ridge Parkway from Waynesboro that I did a spot of deer hunting. This huge male with antlers like an acre of dead forest challenged me on the road. Being a fearless and agile chap I slew him with my front fairing and rear view mirror, throwing him over my shoulder in a trice, leaving him dead at the roadside. I should have carried him away on my shoulders, or as Peter said, cut off his ears as trophies! I enjoyed all the jokes but it could have been very serious....Thank you Mike for patching up my mirror and getting me street legal again. That aside the ride in the National Park and Skyline Drive was stunning, a bikers dream. The roads are near empty, smooth, with mostly constant radius bends and the brilliant views take your breath away, if you give yourself time to look! Everywhere and everything is sterile clean, (and I'm still looking for a dog turd.) and the grass is nicely mown at the verges, ideal for a dog really. After reporting the accident to a National park ranger, we continued to Roanoak, more smooth undulating roads and good bends, clipped neat grass verges, and more brilliant views from the overview areas. We hit the city after dark, messy untidy suburbs with their crude illuminated signs, traffic lights and uneven road surfaces. Several of the tour had been stopped for speeding but were let off lightly with a warning, (a ton ten was mentioned, and I heard of 151 later in the week, or was it KPH Colin?)

 Wednesday 17th We are now in Tennessee, the state looks less prosperous, poorer housing, old cars left amongst the weeds on the property, lots of Baptist churches which have huge car parks and neon signs to attract the sinners. "Thursday is staff appreciation day..." "Let Him cast out your sin" etc Apart from the churches, life in Tennessee looks quite run down, real "Dukes of Hazard" Country. We stopped for breaks at German Creek near Tate springs. A tatty looking caff with peeling Coke signs and a dirty fly-wire door complete with a mangey mongrel. Burgers and chips washed down with ice cold beers and coke from frozen jam jars. Real friendly guys "You folks come all the way from England to meet a bunch of hill billies like us?" More drinks in ice cold jam jars-"jar my preserves...." the bikes of course were always the topic of conversation, especially Nevilles Daytona, you could see him stretching his leathers as he puffed with pride... All America it seems knows somebody who owns a Harley, or owns one themselves. In a Kingsport Yamaha bike shop we met a very short but very wide lady (with no neck) who used to own a Ducati. Her Daddy, who died 21 years ago God rest his soul, sold it behind her back for $399. She was still real sore about it.. We rode ever westwards through poor Tennessee farmland, small holdings,tired looking houses, each one with its own rocking chair or hammock slung on the balcony. Good to arrive at Knoxville, it had been a hot sweaty day for leathers..

Thursday 18th Had an early morning swim, Dawn didn't appear...found the local BMW agent but they were unhelpful. Mike the bike did good first aid to my mirror which held together for rest of the trip. Thanks Mike. Onwards to Nashville, Mike and Jean leading on the red scooter, near empty roads still, small farm country with its Methodist and Baptist churches asking us to follow the Lord. Lovely rolling country but was it hot! Mike's thermometer saw 36 degrees Centigrade ... stopped at Centre Hill Lake for a cool off, all cafe's are air conditioned... 3 retired couples showed us over their "Winnebago" boat. flat bottomed, about 60ft long with all mod cons with jacuzzi on the roof and a spare boat on tow in case they got bored. Four bedrooms, washing machine, air con and a kitchen copied from Smallbone of Devizies.... Neville got really excited, he and Dawn will rent one next year, we're all coming... 60 more miles to Nashville, we quickly found the Quality Inn, in spite of all American city suburbs looking the same. But Nashville was HOT ....Red Leader and Juliet Bravo touched Kentucky during the day to claim one more State. Good Nashville atmosphere bar in our hotel , Rob and Steve quickly taking an interest in the Karaoke ..... Rob told me he didn't know swimming could be such good exercise...Steve reckoned it wasn't necessary to get that wet.

Friday 19th Our first day off from riding, the town still very hot, took the tram round the city, saw a few striking buildings in Nashville city centre but the rest was uninspiring. River bus to Opreyland. .Its an amazing theme park of hotels, shops and entertainment complex with the biggest car park I have ever seen. The centre piece is a 200ft high canopy of glass and steel which houses a whole village of more hotels, shops, gardens, a river complete with boats, waterfalls and sub-tropical plants and walkways. A complete sub tropical ecosystem, I suppose some folk stay inside it for a fortnight. A truly amazing place, not to be missed. That evening driven to the Grande Ole Oprey by a demented guy in his mini-coach. Drove like a maniac while he bantered with a huge couple from Mississippi. I think all 3 of them were high on something. The Concert. This was an experience not to be missed. A modern theatre has been built around the some floorboards from the original Grande Ole Oprey, seating 4200 with wide walkways around the seats because Americans can't sit still without food for longer than 20 minutes. A large procession of huge people constantly getting up to buy more burgers and cokes. After the singing a lot of hooping and hollering we heard Country and Western jokes (v.funny!) and the M/C reading advertisement about restaurants we should try in the town and the awful cough mixture which tasted terrible but was very good for you!.

The audience sits and listens quietly to all this crap, we Brits just pissed themselves with laughter - it was all too much for a Japanese contingent who left after an hour! Seriously, it was a great evening, but I couldn't take it as seriously as most of the folks.... Peter Thornton rode 500 miles to Memphis and back today, one more notch on his belt. What a lunatic...

Saturday 20th Steve and Rob looking a bit saddle sore this morning, funny, I though we hadn't used our bikes yesterday. Mike/Jean, Neville/Dawn, Brian/Terri, Peter and I set off for Gatlinburg. Took the Highway to Crossville, lunch at a nice restaurant in Sweetwater. Into the Great Smokey Mountains blue with haze, and dropped down into Gatlinburg,it reminded me of Matlock Bath but twice as tacky,piped music spewing from every lamp post...

Sunday 21st.Graham went to play bears on Deals Gap borrowing Nevilles Daytona, so he sent Julia to the laundrette .Came back grinning (Graham, not Julia) 11 miles and 318 bends in mountain country. Steve got back looking pleased with himself, it had obviously been a brilliant day. Mike and Jean couldn't resist some off -road tracks, stuffing a rock into their bellypan (painful),and coming home in 4th gear. Most of us went to Dolly Parton's Dixie Stampede that night, described as the most fun place to eat in the Smokies. I really enjoyed it, too much food, an action packed show of riding ,pantomime, music, singing an dancing. All American razmataz,lots of fun.

Monday 22nd. Shipped out of Gatlinburg, through more wonderful scenery over the Chimney Tops of the Great Smokey Mountains, dropping down to the Cherokee Indian Reservation, it was a dull day, no sunshine the wooded reservation seemed rather sombre. The people showed us their skills in craft making and firing blow pipes, our guide was a dour woman who really was not enjoying herself, we didn't dare ask her any questions, they all seemed joyless souls in this dreary wood until we all assembled in the tribes Meeting House. In here Winifred bought a sparkle to our visit, describing wonderfully their customs and way of life. A casino is a possibility for them, to encourage visitors and give them more income. One reservation in Connecticut has one, it produces $5000 per month income for each family....But Winifred did not seem at all impressed.... En route again we stopped at the Mount Pigsah Inn for lunch, the grilled trout was delicious and the view from the window the smokey blue of the mountains around us. The waitress was a bit vicious, threatening to hit me with the pepper mill, if I gave any more cheek....She meant it too... We rolled onwards through the Smokeys into North Carolina, met some heavy traffic, we all stopped for the school bus (its the law) -just one eight year old child got off!

Arrived in Lexington and had a good Chinese meal that evening.

Tuesday 23rd Bound for Williamsburg tonight, the old men cruising at 60-65 suddenly leaped from their saddles, it was Nigel, the 100 mph undertaker, his Ducati the fastest milk cart in the west that morning... Quite soon after this our group was stopped by a Sheriff, black uniform, black car, chewing baccy and as he spoke, spat out smooth round gobs of it, too frequently for Dawns liking. I bet Nevilles got some unmentionable habits! He claimed to have Scottish ancestors, he'd go down a bundle in Princes Street, Edinburgh! He told us one of our group was lost and we should wait for him... But who? mysterious that one.. We pressed on, choosing the primary roads where possible. The Interstate Highways were quickest, but tedious, too many massive trucks to pass and no scenery to admire. Primary roads were nicer but not quite so quick as many had "dozing policemen" on them in an effort to slow the traffic. Hard on the knackers for a while, then you didn't feel a thing!

As we approached Williamsburg the traffic became denser from Norfolk across Hampton Roads, over a 5 mile long causeway with a tunnel under the shipping lane, arriving at Williamsburg we had clocked 320 miles that day - our longest run. Steve and Rob were the last to check in and they had done the least miles, but they had other ways of using their energy....Steve had been cautioned by a Sheriff for doing 75 mph, thought he had been shopped by a truck driver who saw him cross a double yellow line. Steve said he thought the lines were only advisory.. Bob and Lesley too were warned for speeding, but they were decoys for the rest doing unmentionable speeds. To Williamsburg old town for a Seafood meal, OK but quite expensive. Got lost on the way back but we sweet talked a girl into a lift back to the hotel. The rest had to walk back...oh well, there you go....

Wednesday 24th. Raining today, with Gordon and Leslie, Garry, Steve and Rob explored the old town, weather board houses and shops in the colonial style, this is a working museum, the people in period costumes, smocks, wigs, bucked shoes, some carrying sacks over their backs, they speak in the old tongues used in the 18th century and live in the same style. Its all very authentic and most interesting. Met Dale outside the visitor centre, who was bowled over by all of us with our cute accents, she claimed to have Welsh ancestors but Peter thought she was one of the Yorkshire Dales...Rob worked his subtle charm and she took all of us to a 'jazz restaurant' that night on his bike. Beforehand we all gathered in the gloom outside the hotel for a photocall. The jazz and the food was good, Peter got pissed and fell off his chair.

Thursday 25th Woke again to rain, in the bus to Jamestown, a re-enactment of the first colonial settlement founded in 1607. Dark woods and buildings but very animated talks by the folk there, dressed in suede leather garments! We Boarded "God speed" a replica of one of the first vessels to find this coast, built in Ipswich, Suffolk and sailed across recently. How small she seems to have crossed the Atlantic with 70 hands aboard, and what courage the first settlers had. That evening the local press arrived to hear our story! Paul Aron of the Viginian Gazette interviewed us all and promised a good write-up in his paper, as long as there were no murders that night - unlikely in respectable and staid Williamsburg. He promised to send copies to us. Terrible meal in the hotel restaurant that night, but I didn't complain too much...

Friday 26th Departed Williamsburg in fine weather...bound for the Shirley Plantation the old colonial estate established in 1723, beautiful setting on the shores of the James River. Tour of the house and into the cotton plantation outside - picked some cotton wool buds -real ones, we met this elderly man outside the house, we thought he was a gardener but he was really a 7th generation of the Carter family who settled on the estate. Said he knew Chichester well. Hadn't the heart to tell him he had died many years ago....Onwards to Baltimore now crossing the Potomac river at a fine causeway/bridge, some needing a sleep on the grass just before to catch up with lack of sleep... We got bogged down in heavy weekend traffic in the Washington/Baltimore area. The heat and brain lag got us lost in Baltimore. We found the airport again(just checking for Sunday). Nobody in the ghetto area knew Odonell St. Eventually a taxi driver sorted us out. The two tail enders picked up 2 girls in a car, personal escorts to our hotel. They got taken home to meet mother the same night...

Saturday 27th Sadly its bike loading day, a brand new container waiting for us at Billys yard. A professional (?), George, Bob and Nigel did most of the graft, the rest of us tried to look useful as we enjoyed beer and sandwiches in the sun. Thank you all for doing a brilliant job ,the bikes went in very neatly with room to spare. Lets hope there's no damage on the return trip. The same evening most of us went to a restaurant at Fells Point, good food, flat English beer, the place very busy, stretch limos and Harleys. Back at the hotel Basil came out of his shell (a closet pianist?) and started on the ivories, pulling the birds from a nearby disco. He was so pissed in the end he walked into the glass hotel door and jammed it...

Sunday 28th The last morning, everyone in the foyer in a sombre mood, we're ready to get home now, a last shopping trip in the bus to get the bargains, Julia was spending lavishly, Graham not pleased about buying another bag to put the stuff into. Pouring rain today, it will be good to leave now. At the airport Steve threw his last card ,had packed his flight ticket with his bike...A long interview, it could cost him $70... with smooth charm he oiled himself out of it!

And so ended a wonderful trip,( not many bikers can say they have ridden their own bikes in the USA!) so professionally organised by Graham and Julia.

Our thanks to you both I know it took many months of planning and several sleepless nights towards the end, and we couldn't have attempted this without the mini bus, so the other heros were Wendy, Carmen and Hazel who did nearly all the driving, our thanks to you all. It was the first experience of the States for most of us and surely not the last. We were fortunate to have wonderful weather on the riding days, although it was a bit too hot on some. We met curiosity and friendship from everyone, didn't they just love our accents! As a group we all enjoyed the fellowship that's only possible with Round Table.